Cherry Blossom Evening Bag

This is a bag I made to enter in The Independent Handbag Designer Awards. I interned with a handbag designer when I was in school and she always told me to enter this competition, and I finally did this year!

About two months ago I decided I would enter, but I still didn't know what my bag would look like. Then about a month ago I thought I better get onto it and went to Toronto for supplies. I got this really beautiful cream coloured pearlized leather from The Fabric Room. I had eyed it last year but didn't have any projects in mind until now. I also got a teal coloured pig suede to line the bag from Perfect Leather. I didn't have much luck finding any hardware. It's so difficult to find any hardware here, if only I lived in New York. I quickly ordered some hardware off of Etsy, praying it would get here in time. I waited until the last minute......and it did not come. So now I had no hardware and NO time left!! At least I had my design mostly figure out so I just started it hoping I would finish it time. The deadline was April 23 at 11:59pm and I literally submitted my entry at 11:56pm. I made it JUST in time!

I was inspired by High Park in Toronto. Around this time of year its filled with beautiful cherry blossom trees. I also really like to experiment with different textures and shapes: the pearlized main leather, the purple suede circle, the pebbled leather tree and the 3D leather flowers. I hand cut and sewed on 100 flowers, each layered with a circle of pink suede and anchored with a fresh water pearl. The bag has four gold purse feet and a teal green suede lining. The lining has two pockets, one zippered and one patch pocket.

The bag is small and structured. I used a recycled leather stiffner on the front and back, I used a plastic purse bottom and I fused the side panels with shirt collar fusing.  The handles are made using plumbers tubing and overlapped to form the handle shape.

I had bought Tandy leather edge paint in Neutral, it painted on mostly clear, so I painted the raw edges with textile paint first, then used the edge paint as a top coat.

This bag was going together so smoothly, until the very end, where it just all went wrong. And at this point I only had a couple hours left, needless to say I was getting stressed. I was really wishing I had an industrial free arm sewing machine. I didn't realized the bag would basically just not fit in my machine, no matter what I did. I ended up having to take the plastic bottom out to sew the sides in, and then cover the plastic base and place it above the lining instead. But it all worked out in the end.

Heres the picture I entered in the competition, you could only send in one picture so I tried to make it look as pro as possible. I just entered the competition for fun and if I place or not I still got a pretty new evening bag out of it!

I can't wait to see what bags are chosen this year!  Thanks for reading! 

Wishing for Summer

I was waiting for some nice weather to take these pictures outside but instead we got two huge snow storms and theres a couple feet of snow still out there. So much for the unusually hot Spring we were supposed to have! Maybe if I start sewing my summer wardrobe the weather will get the hint!

I am really loving jumpsuits lately. When I saw this fabric I had a vision of this wonderful jumpsuit! I recently discovered Blackbird Fabrics and I can't believe I didn't know about them sooner! They have such great fabric and they're Canadian! Yay! I am so inlove with this print. And the jumpsuit is super comfy too!

I used an old Vogue pattern 1308. I really liked the pattern, it's a nice simple design which was perfect to showcase this fabric. I left out the ruffle down the front and the drawstrings on the waist. I wanted to keep it plain and simple because the fabric had so much going on.

I used some scraps of brown silk from another project to finish the neck and armhole edges. I finished the armholes in the same way I finished the neck, the pattern called for a different technique but I thought this way it was really clean looking. I chose not to put a zipper down the back neck, instead I sewed it up a bit further and finished the edges separately, creating sort of a keyhole opening, and I added a hook and eye at the top. I also chose not to add the extra piece to create the elastic casing at the waist. Instead I just turned in the waist seam allowance to form a casing, and I used a 3/8" wide elastic rather than the 1" elastic the pattern called for.

Finally, instead of making the facings on the pocket bag, I just used the self fabric to make the whole pocket bag, since my fabric was pretty lightweight. The pockets are really unnoticeable even though I didn't do any print matching.

I did french seams everywhere including the pocket bags.

I really like how my jumpsuit turned out, I think it was a combination of the perfect fabric and a great pattern. I am even more excited for summer now because I want to start wearing this!

Thanks for reading! :)

I feel so Missoni

I love the Missoni chevron print so when I saw this knock off knit at Fabricland I needed it! And Vogue 1314 was the perfect fit.

I can see why so many people have made and loved this sewing pattern. It was so easy to sew up and looks really good too. The shell of the pattern was only 3 pieces and the lining 2 so it was quick to cut out. I tried to match the chevrons but they were pretty skewed which made it difficult.

I graded the pattern from a 12 on top to a 14 at the hip like I usually do but I think if I were to make it again I would just make the whole thing in a size 12. I don't know if it was the fabric or what but it was a bit loose at the waist and hip. So the gathers kind of sag instead of being stretched across like I would have liked. My fabric was a bit spongy and soft so that might be the reason, I'll have to see next time.

I didn't alter anything on this pattern. I saw so many reviews of this pattern and everyones versions looked so beautiful. I had never even really noticed this pattern before joining pattern review and seeing all the lovely creations.

This was such a quick project, I whipped it up in almost just one evening of sewing. The next time I sew this I will make sure to stay the neck better. I really stretched it out on this one, I guess I was thinking it was more like stretching the ribbed neck band on a t-shirt but really its just finishing the neck edge with self made bias. Maybe I will try fusing the neck band. I will definitely be making this pattern again, maybe in a slinkier knit and in a smaller size.

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I've been working away at my Alabama Chanin project! I tried out my airbrush and it worked wonderfully! So I painted my thrift store t-shirt and started my corset! I was really lucky when I found this t-shirt, its the perfect weight and a really nice denim blue colour. I found it in the men's golf T section, I think that's why it was the nice, heavier weight. And a plus, it has never actually been worn, tags and all still attached! I used a pearlized white paint mixed with a bit of navy. I was shocked at how much paint it took. I have no experience with spray painting and I mixed one mini vile (like probably 1/8 cup) thinking that would be plenty. Nope! It took the whole original jar of pearl paint, most of the navy and part of a jar of white paint because I was desperate! So the whole pattern is a bunch of different paint mixes because I just kept mixing and guessing and thinking how could this be taking this much paint?!?! But it all worked out in the end so I'm happy! 

The pearlized paint worked out really well, I love the bit of shine it gives it. I used Anna's Garden stencil for this that I cut out myself out of felt. I started couching the first corset piece and I am really pleased with it so far! I can't wait to get it done and sew it up!

Silk Slip - Vogue 8888

This is a bias slip dress I made for my mom. I've always sort of shied away from bias projects, they just seemed a bit daunting. I worked on a few at work recently and finally got up the courage to try one on my own! Me and my mom are wayyyy different sizes but that's the beauty of bias! It just stretches to fit!

When this pattern first came out I didn't really take a second look at it. I liked the housecoat but thought I would probably never make it. Then looking through old vogue pattern magazine articles I came across this slip dress. I fell in love. I thought to myself "how did I ever miss this slip pattern!!" I was so surprised to find out it was Vogue 8888. I find it just looks so different with the minor changes mentioned in the magazine article. 

I want to make one for myself now, I think I would still make it in a size up and maybe two sizes up in the hip. I thought this project was going to take a really long time but it was surprisingly quick and actually pretty easy! I was worried about fit so I tried it on my mom with just the side seams basted together and it fit perfect with no alterations! 

I used brown silk charmeuse from The Fabric Room, and black stretch lace trim from Fabricland. I haven't hemmed the slip yet, when I do the final fitting on my mom I will even out the hem and add the lace trim. It's been hanging in my studio for a week now and the hem is actually pretty even on the Judy. With bias cut garments its often necessary to even out the hem after letting it hang for at least a few days.  **Update: I tried it on my mom and the hem did need some evening out but it wasn't too drastic. 

My lace trim was only 2" wide, whereas the article called for 3" wide trim. It didnt make much of a difference until I was laying the trim on the skirt front. If I laid it centred on the diagonal seam, the lace didn't meet at the centre where it joins to the bodice. I thought it looked a bit odd, so I just moved the lace over toward the inside of the seam, so they would meet at the top and the seam was still covered. 

I really love the way it turned out! I am really impressed with the quality and fit of this pattern. I know bias cut patterns can be kind of tricky to perfect. I think the elastic lace trim made it really easy to fit, since you could pull it a bit wherever it needed to be a bit more snug. 

Thanks for reading! 

Jammies/Loungesuit

I am the type of person who only gets dressed if I have to leave the house. So on work days I get dressed but otherwise I usually don't. I pretty much lived in my Juicy track suit for the past 3 years and its had the biscuit! And Juicy Couture is no longer!! The horror! So I thought I would make myself a new lounge suit/pyjama.

I combined the things I liked in lazy clothes with the things I liked about pyjamas. I usually sleep in short nighties, but when I get up I put on leggings. So I wanted something that covered my legs, and that was comfy with nothing like a hood that would be annoying to sleep in.

This was such an easy project, it sewed up in a couple of hours. Its just made from cheapy jersey, but I thought the slinkiness of the fabric would be really comfy. I drafted the pattern from a basic pant pattern I already knew fit, I just added a ton of fullness through the centre of the pants, then I extended the waist edge to make a fold over waistband with a wide 1.5" elastic, and I cropped them to flood length. For the t-shirt I just used a basic t-shirt block i knew fit as well and cropped it short.

I really love them so far! I want to make them in white linen for the summer! I'd just have to change up the t-shirt pattern a bit to accommodate a woven fabric.

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I am currently working on a really time consuming project. I have finally jumped on the Alabama Chanin train! I am completely obsessed! My employer got me her book and some fabric to make a project for Christmas, a hugely generous gift! I was so surprised, and spoiled! So far I've made up a muslin of the dress I want to make. And now I've started cutting out a stencil from felt. It is taking forever but turning out really well thankfully! I just got an airbrush and will be trying to figure that out as well. I got a XXL cotton t-shirt from a thrift store and I thought I might try the stencil on that first, and if it works out I will make the corset pattern out of it. Can't wait to share that project with you guys but it won't be for a very long time still! I might sneak in some process shots here and there because I'm so excited about it. 

Thanks for reading! Hope you had a nice weekend!

My Puffy Winter Coat

I've wanted to make myself a winter coat ever since I saw it in Vogue Patterns Magazine. The article showed how to make a winter puffer out of a duvet blanket. In all honesty, I didn't learn the techniques from the article and it wasn't the first time I saw the coat. The article was written by my employer Kathryn Brenne, and I was at the studio for a few days while she was working on it. I couldn't wait to make my own, it is such an ingenious idea to make a winter coat out of a duvet!

I was thinking about this winter coat for a while. It started out just knowing I wanted to make it, no design or fabric in mind. Then, I saw someone made this Vogue pattern out of a Kantha quilt on Pattern Review and I fell in love with it. The idea then became to combine the two ideas, the duvet cover with a kantha quilt shell. So that was the plan for a while, until I started thinking that if I really wanted it to be serviceable for winter, it might be better in something plain, and waterproof. And that is how this coat came to be! I spend way too long thinking about projects before starting them, but in the end it actually, usually pays off.

I used a light weight duvet from Ikea to do this project. I debated getting a heavier duvet, and between real feathers and synthetic, but finally decided on real down feathers and the lightweight duvet in a king size. I probably could have gotten away with a queen size but for a couple dollars more I got the king to be safe. I didn't realize how puffy it would really make the coat until I was halfway through (glad I didn't go with a heavier duvet!). I like it though, its exaggerated and makes a statement. The pattern I chose was an exaggerated style to begin with Vogue 8930.

This project took a ton of work! Hence the very late post. But it was definitely worth it. Especially since winter here feels like 3/4 of the year. Now I have something pretty AND warm to wear! It's actually actively snowing out in the photos but you can't really tell.

The fabric I used is actually the same fabric Linda Lundstrom used for her La Parka coats. It wears like steel and is great for the weather here. I love the colour for winter and the way the fabric has a bit of shine to it.

I added in zippered pockets, and I placed them a few inches in from the side seams, closer to the front of the coat. I then lined the pockets in a Minky type fabric so it would be like a mitten inside.

This coat pattern didn't have a closure, but I thought for the winter I would be best to add some kind of closure. I used two sets of covered snaps.

Instead of lining the whole front in self fabric, I only lined part of it in self and the rest in lining. I also lengthened the sleeves for a long full length sleeve. The real tricky part was putting everything together. It was essentially like making the pattern three times, first the duvet, then the shell and then the lining. Because the duvet had to be sandwiched in-between the shell and the lining, I had to leave openings in both. I left the opening in the side seam of the lining, but chose to leave the opening on the under collar on the shell so it would be less noticeable. I also had to do hand tacking stitches all over the place to keep everything in place (underarms, shoulder, neck, hems...). I did about eight tacks all along the under collar, because it kept rolling up. I also hand tacked the seam allowances down inside along the collar and the sleeve hems. My fingers were pretty painful when I was finished, the duvet was tough to get the needle through by hand.

I didn't do the cutting and sewing techniques quite right when I was cutting all the pieces from the duvet and I ended up with a hugeeeeeee mess of feathers, like I mean huge. And the way the duvet is sewn and cut into pieces, you basically have to put the entire cover through the sewing machine in one piece, multiple times. I was wishing I had a table with only my sewing machine on it, because I was knocking everything off my table struggling with this huge blanket!

I tried to throw a snowball, but it didn't capture as well as I had hoped! :P

Thanks for reading! :)

My Brother's Backpack

This backpack has been a long time coming! Ever since I made my mom a purse, my brother has been after me to make him a backpack. So the next time we were in Toronto I brought him to Perfect Leather so he could chose exactly what he wanted. My brother found a really pretty brown/black leather that was a bit shiny but at the same time a bit rugged looking.

Later when we got home he started looking online for backpacks similar to what he wanted. To my surprise he wanted something with a bunch of pockets! I had wrongly assumed it was something relatively simple, with maybe a zipper closure and a zipper pocket or two. I didn't mind making that kind of bag, it's just I had estimated the leather square footage I would need for the other design. But then I thought, it always works out somehow in the end so I just started drafting the pattern.

There is nowhere around here where I can get handbag hardware. The closest place would be Toronto and it doesn't really have the greatest selection. I had got my mom's bag's hardware on my trip to New York last year, I even had some custom zippers made up for it. But unfortunately my brother hadn't put in his order for his backpack by that time. So I had to make due. I went on Etsy to see what I could find and was pretty surprised by the decent selection. When I was choosing the hardware I had to keep in mind that he wanted it to be manly, which is actually harder to do than I would have thought. So I stuck to gunmetal everything, and mostly used buckles.

I warned my brother that all these buckles would be a huge pain, and knowing him he would be walking around with his bag completely open because he would be too lazy to do up the buckle. While browsing online I found this bag that had it all figured out, I almost missed it in the pictures. They put the buckle on the front closure just as all the other pockets, but this buckle is fake. They placed a tuck lock hidden beneath the buckle, so instead of having to unbuckle the front of the bag, all you need to do is press on the tuck lock! So clever!

I added a zippered pocket on the back of the bag for keeping more valuable things like a phone or wallet. Since that pocket sits against your back, it's usually safe from pickpockets.

I didn't start this bag for so long! When I finally sat down to start it, I drafted up the whole pattern, which was relatively quick to do. It's actually one of my favourite parts. It's so easy and fun since really all most handbags are, are a series of square pieces, and really they can be whatever you want! It's so different from garment drafting since in garment drafting there are a lot of rules I guess you could say, and things to worry about like fit. But with bags it's pretty much just whatever you wanna do! So I'm done the pattern, and I go to lay it out on the leather skins. I knew this would be the hardest part, because I was guessing it would be a tight fit. And wow was I right! I just kept trying different layouts over and over, thinking to myself there must be some way I can fit this, if only I keep trying. So I left it for a while after that. I moved on to other projects, because I couldn't figure out how to make this work! So finally I sat down again, convinced once again I could figure this out. It took a while, but finally I found a layout, it was extremely tight. I was nervous to start cutting, in case I forgot an integral piece or somehow came to the end and it wouldn't all fit. But it did, just barely! The great thing about it was I wasted almost nothing from those skins, literally shreds were left over. And since I knew my brother wanted the bag to be rugged looking, all the imperfections on the leather actually added to the aesthetic.

I used silk topstitching thread for this bag, I had it leftover from another project. It was pretty much the price of gold, but I thought at this point it's just left over and this bag would really showcase it.

My brother was so excited when I brought it up to show him! He said it was even better than he had imagined! Success!

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I recently had the amazing opportunity to design some childrenswear sewing patterns for Vogue patterns under my employer Kathryn Brenne. My first one was just released in the Spring 2016 collection!  Check it out!

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9177-products-50922.php?page_id=174